A man with a sack slung over his shoulder trudges up a mountain
of rotting rubbish, where Marabou storks perch like mournful sentinels.
In the valley below, a woman pulls a jacket from the rubbish and holds
it up, appraising it with a critical eye.
At Nairobi's Dandora
rubbish dump, the working day is in full swing. Men and women pick
through a newly arrived truck, looking for plastic, food, clothes, paper
and bottles – anything they can sell on or take home to use.
Robert Ondika, 27, straightens from sifting through the rubbish with an iron hook. He has been working in Dandora, one of
Africa's
largest rubbish dumps, for three years and earns between 50 and 500
Kenyan shillings a day (between $0.60 and $6). "We come here to earn our
daily bread," he says in Kiswahili. "Here, we touch different things,
we could step on something sharp. It is only God who is helping us
here."
For these foot soldiers in Nairobi's unregulated rubbish
business, the work is perilous and the rewards paltry, to say nothing of
the discomfort of spending the day in a smoky, stinking wasteland. But
for those who live in the neighbourhoods around the dump, it offers
survival.
That is Dandora's paradox – it is source of life, but also of illness and, occasionally, death. In a
report released on Tuesday,
Concern Worldwide, Italian development group
Cesvi and church group
Exodus Kutoka say the dump is "one of the most flagrant violations of human rights" in
Kenya.
The
report says the city council of Nairobi, local government departments and the
National Environment Management Authority (Nema) bear legal responsibility for the hazardous living conditions in the slums nearby.
The
dump, which lies 8km (5 miles) from the city centre, was declared full
in 2001, and since then campaigners, including Concern, have sought to
have it decommissioned.
The report,
Trash and Tragedy: The Impact of Garbage on Human Rights in Nairobi City,
says the rubbish had polluted the soil, water and air, affecting more
than 200,000 people, including up to 10,000 who spend the day seeking
treasure from it.
Most of them do not wear gloves or masks and
many suffer from respiratory ailments, such as asthma. Other conditions
that have affected workers include anaemia, kidney problems, cancer and
frequent miscarriages.
A
2007 study
by the United Nations Environment Programme found that at least half
the children in surrounding neighbourhoods had heavy metal
concentrations in their blood that exceed the minimum level set by the
World Health Organisation. Some estimates say around half the workers on
the dump are under 18.
A site for a new dump was earmarked near
Nairobi's international airport, but that idea stalled this year when
the Kenya Airports Authority said birds attracted by the rubbish could
endanger planes.
The
Trash and Tragedy report says many workers do not support plans to close the dump, where 850 tonnes of
waste are deposited each day.
Father
John Webootsa, who lives nearby in Korogocho slum, understands this.
"It brings money and it brings death," says the Comboni priest, who has
campaigned for years to have the 30-acre dump relocated. He organises
vocational training and loans for scavengers to help them escape.
"We
believe this is not a life that human beings should live," he says.
"Many [people] have died and others are dying. Others have been burned
by the acid, the 'boilers' [contaminated industrial waste barrels] that
are there. Beneath that garbage, there are boiling chemicals, and people
may be burned if they step on them by accident."
Korogocho, which
means "crowded shoulder to shoulder" in Kiswahili, appears to have been
forgotten by the government. On one of the narrow streets, pigs snuffle
among piles of rubbish, just yards from the body of a dead dog.
Webootsa says people here feel rejected by society and by the
government. "Social amenities are not provided, the government is not
here. We do not have a public health facility … there are only two
schools, and they were built by us," he says.
But the dump is a
source of wealth and power for the men at the top of an informal cartel
that runs the site. With no government control, there is plenty of room
for gangsters to wield their influence. Visitors must organise and pay
for "security" to walk around the site and to take photographs.
The report
says powerful business interests have rallied communities against the
decommissioning process. "Most of the anti-decomissioning forces have
deeply vested business interests that thrive in the prevailing chaos,"
it says.
The
report argues that any solution requires a sea-change in Nairobi, a city of more than 3.5 million people where
recycling
is non-existent, or ad hoc. "Residents of Nairobi must take
responsibility for their waste … a key step is to demand urgent delivery
of a safe and comprehensive waste management system, with a functional
sanitary landfill," the report says.
Concern
and its co-authors urge the government to use modern technology to
isolate toxic waste in Dandora, and identify a site to build a sanitary
landfill.
Webootsa stresses that any solution must take into
account the thousands working as scavengers. "They don't need the dump.
They need the job," he says. "They don't need the rubbish. They will be
happy to have a clean environment, they will be happy to breathe clean
air, and of course, there has to be a proper livelihood."